Rio Gringa

From the outside in: Part I

I'd never been out of the country for so long before this past year in Brazil, and being back has allowed me a clearer vision of the US. It's kind of like Google Earth: sometimes, if you zoom in too far, everything gets blurry, but once you zoom out a bit, everything coming into focus.

One of the things I've noticed is how militarized public security has come (at least in New York). After 9/11, it was scary but seemed like a logical reaction, but now, seven years later, it creeps me out. It seems like people have gotten used to it: dozens of uniformed cops at subway stations, National Guard soldiers in uniform with sniper rifles at Grand Central, and signs everywhere urging people "If you see something, say something." Instead of making me feel safe, it has just made me incredibly paranoid.

With all of the measures put into place after 9/11, like the Patriot Act and expanded powers for police and government authorities, I don't feel any safer. Though I know a lot of what goes on is behind the scenes, things we will never see or know, I can't help but feel insecure.

On the other hand, it also seems to me that the US government's reaction to 9/11 was much like the reaction of parents when their teenager sneaks out of the house and has something terrible happen to her. The parents ground her, barely let her out on her own, and never really trust her again. (not based on personal experience, thankfully) I feel that a lot of the government's policies about immigration, airport security, and surveillance have been over the top and too late. The worst has happened and we can't un-do it. And now, with these secretive new policies, the government feels more like Big Brother than a protector.

In short, post 9/11 security measures have made me feel a lot worse. Oddly, I feel much safer taking the Metro in Rio than I do the subway in New York. I can ride in peace without feeling completely paranoid.

get out of my face

One of the things I didn't expect I'd have to deal with in New York are the flier people. The flier people are all over Rio de Janeiro, in neighborhoods rich and poor alike, shoving pieces of paper in your face for salons, restaurants, clubs, you name it. They stand at corners, in front of the Metro, in the middle of the sidewalk, and even walk around the beach shoving fliers at you. I got pretty sick of it.

So when I came home I was surprised I'd forgotten that the situation is almost worse in New York. There are plenty of flier people in Midtown Manhattan, and near my office, downtown, there are the Marketers. Not only do they wield fliers, but some of these people are handing out free samples, trying to get you to buy stuff, or trying to get your money. I don't mind the free sample people so much, but I have just about had it with the DNC canvassers, who plant themselves directly in front of my office nearly every day and scream at passersby: DO YOU HAVE A MINUTE FOR OBAMA TODAY!??! To which I reply, No, I don't. Even though I know their jobs suck, their presence irritates me so much, trying to hit up loyal supporters for cash. Shouldn't they be out trying to convert swing voters in the South?

And then, worst of all, there are the Jews for Jesus. I purposely give them wide berth as not to do anything cruel or crass.

reuniting

One of the best things about being home is reuniting with old friends. I can't describe how wonderful it is to see these people I haven't seen for a year, the people I can tell anything to, the people who share my interests, and the people who know me best. I've had a flurry of outings, lunches, dinners, and coffees in an attempt to see as many old friends as I can, but with less than a month left, I'm not sure I'm going to see everyone I want to see.

It has made me realize that one of the things missing most from my life in Rio is close friends, especially female friends. My mom would shake her finger at me (I think she has, over the phone while I was away), but it's not for lack of trying that I haven't seemed to manage this yet. I know other people in similar situations who also have this problem, so I don't feel alone.

So as much as I can, for my remaining 3ish weeks at home, I'm going to continue to matar those saudades, one by one.

wha?

One of the things weirding me out about being stateside are those added costs we're so used to, especially as New Yorkers, that I had nearly forgotten about while I was in Brazil--namely, taxes and tips.

First of all, there's no added sales tax in Brazil on regular consumer goods (I'm sure it's added in beforehand from the exorbitant prices of things like electronics). I forget if there's a restaurant tax, but if there is, it's small. At lunch buffet places, similar cafe-like restaurants, and grocery stores, there's no tax. Also, at restaurants, the tip is automatically included, at 10%, and is still optional. Here, people keep reminding me about the tip, and that it's 20%!

It's not just restaurants and stores--taxis, too. Though taxis in Rio aren't exactly cheap, you also are not required to tip them. I still am unsure about the deal of tipping hairdressers and the like, mostly because I went to a salon the grand total of one time.

Anyhow, I'm overwhelmed by the taxes and tips.

an ode to the ultimate culture shock remedy

Ladies and gents, I have found the ultimate remedy for reverse culture shock:

Whole Foods.

There's a huge one near my office, and since I started work I've gone there nearly every day. Amidst the feelings of confusion and strangeness from being home, and the shock of working 9-5 in a fluorescent-lit office, Whole Foods has made me feel like a new person.

First of all, it helps me forget about missing the little things from Brazil because of the incredible stuff they have there. If I was coming from Argentina or Italy or Israel I think I'd be similarly comforted. Speaking of Brazil though, they have these super fancy fruit chips, one of which are jaca (jackfruit) flavored, that were a little weird (but I don't really like jaca in the first place since it looks like mucus). They have beautiful, beautiful fresh fruit. They have a gelato bar. They have a sushi bar. They have a juice bar (!) which offers orange and carrot juice, amongst others, and ACAI. Yes. Acai. And the guy showed me the stuff they use, a frozen mix, which actually is almost as good as the berries. He told me they sell the mix in the actual store, too. They have an incredible buffet, a la "por kilo" restaurants in Brazil. And today, I nearly fell over when I saw caldo verde in the fresh soup section of the buffet (it actually wasn't very good, though).

Second of all, it has all of the delicious things I desperately missed, like gooey baked goods, cookies and cupcakes, decent iced tea, cheese galore, and in some stores, a burrito bar. [Excuse me while I wipe the drool from my keyboard] And everything is organic, so it makes me feel like I am making a slight effort to be healthy and environmentally conscious. Everything is clean and shiny, and everything smells delicious and fresh. The check out lines are so organized and move fast, with a soothing automated voice calling out the number of the register for you to go to. American efficiency makes me want to drool too.

So, my shell shocked friends, go forth to your nearest Whole Foods for even just a brief moment of comfort. You won't be sorry you did.*

*Whole Foods did not endorse this entry. I am in no way gaining anything from them in publishing this. My integrity is intact, which is a shame because my wallet is certainly nearly empty from all those lunches.

blips of realization

One of the fun parts of reverse culture shock is constantly and suddenly realizing things about your home country you hadn't necessarily considered before, things that have become relevant to you for one reason or another.

Here are some of my mine.

Women's attire: Cleavage in Brazil is acceptable in almost all settings, except perhaps an important business meetings, though I've seen plenty of cleavage in big offices there, so who knows? Women tend to dress more formally, even just to leave the house, but showing skin is generally acceptable. Here, at least in New York and most of the urban and northern US, that's not always the case. Offices always require you cover up your boobs, and any formal or business setting imply that you not show skin. We even have an expression for it, "showing skin," as if our thighs were somehow something dirty and forbidden. I now find that I check myself before leaving the house to make sure I don't make anyone uncomfortable.

Public safety than the possibility of : I'm always on guard when I leave the house in Rio due to the many dangers the city has. So when I came back to New York, I felt relieved, as if now I could really relax. That was until one day on the train on the way to Manhattan, when I was suddenly struck with intense, cold fear. We may not have a serious homicide problem here, but terrorism is always a threat, especially on public transportation in New York City.  And oddly enough, the small possibility terrorism scares me much, much more than the considerable possibility of being mugged.

Drinks to go: I really missed this while living in Rio, since people just don't consume things on the go. This was the main reason I missed Starbucks, missing the feeling of a hot drink in my hand as I walked down the street. Here, people always carry around water bottles and Nalgenes, as if there is a definite and imminent fear of them dying of thirst. You rarely see this in Brazil, unless the person is going on some sort of hike or trek.

Pedestrians flaunting wealth: In New York especially, people love showing exactly what they have even if they're just walking a few blocks: their handbags, their cell phones, their sunglasses, their jewelery, their clothes. (This, incidentally, helps make peoplewatching in New York really entertaining) In Rio, the rich love to flaunt their wealth but know better than to do it in the street, and restrict their flaunting to the privacy of their enormous homes.

not so funny conversations

Me: So the last time I got my hair cut was in Brazil, and she used a razor blade instead of scissors.
Hairdresser: I see.
Me: Yup.
Hairdresser: Did you ask her to cut your hair in the shape of a V?
Me: What? [She shows me in the mirror]
Hairdresser: Your hair was cut in a V shape. Would you like me to keep it that way?
Me: No. Please no.

Me: Hello, I'd like to make an appointment with the doctor so I can get new contacts.
Nurse: Ok, sure.
Me: The only problem is I've been out of the country for a year and I'm leaving again, so I have no insurance.
Nurse: [sharp intake of breath] Ooo. Oh. Ok. Well. Hm.
Me: Well, how much would a regular visit be?
Nurse: I suppose the most basic visit would be $170.
Me: Ah. Ok. Well, I'll just ask him not to do anything complicated.
Nurse: Yes, make sure you explain the situation when you come in.

Me: Hello?
Bank Man: Hello, is this Rachel?
Me: Yes...
Bank Man: Hi, I'm calling from [your bank] and I just have a few questions for you.
Me: [slightly panicking] Um, go ahead.
Bank Man: Did you make an online purchase of air miles this week?
Me: Yes...
Bank Man: Did you also just spend $200 on a Metro North ticket?
Me: Yup, that too.
Bank Man:  And you also purchased airfare online as well?
Me: Yes, I did. I, um, do a lot of traveling! [Forced laugh]
Bank Man: [ignoring me] Ok, then. We just wanted to make sure your card wasn't stolen.