I Spy in Rio

While I was in Rio a few weeks ago, I tried to take in as much as I could despite time constraints. With more time, I might have spent days just wandering around the city with a notebook, but instead, I took every opportunity to note changes in the city since I'd left.

Local Business

Everywhere I went, there were Itaú banks everywhere. In some neighborhoods, it seemed like there was literally one on every corner, a la Starbucks back in its heyday. I'm guessing it's partially a result of the Itaú - Unibanco merger in late 2008, and that gradually all of the Unibanco branches were absorbed. But I also suspect it's related to the bank's success in a booming economy with a growing population of people looking for checking and savings services. I turned it into a game of sorts, so that whenever we passed an Itaú, I'd point at it and cry, Itaú! in mock surprise. When I got home, I bought some stock.

Cones are out (or at least, there seem to be fewer cone restaurants). Frozen yogurt is in. What started out as a single store in Ipanema has now blossomed into a chain with at least one other competitor, with stores throughout Zona Sul and in quite a few malls.

Speaking of malls, if you want to see Brazil's so-called economic miracle firsthand, I'd recommend taking a trip to Bangú Shopping, a beautiful mall in a lower middle class neighborhood in Zona Oeste. It opened a few years ago in an 120 year-old factory, and unlike many malls in nearby Barra, it has a quaint charm to it (at least on the outside), and is especially pretty now that it's decked out in Christmas lights. Not only are many of the stores the same ones you'll find in Zona Sul, it also has a fantastic movie theater and restaurants and cafes (including a Yogoberry). If you explore some of the areas nearby, you'll appreciate the fact that businesses are not only actively targeting different socioeconomic classes, but are in fact catering to them like they would in more affluent parts of the city.

Transportation

I was absolutely blown away by the reforms on the Metro, so much so that I even took pictures. They completely redid a few stations, outfitting them with gorgeous glass entrances, decorations, Metrocard machines, funky benches, and TV screens with information about the trains.

And then of course, there was the thing that basically made my entire week: the new Ipanema station. Not only is it beautiful and convenient, but it means you no longer have to take a bus from Copacabana and can just go straight there, saving lots of time and preventing a hassle. So basically, amazing (cue heavenly music here):

The question now is if the Metro can manage to extend the line even further to Barra, theoretically before 2014 in time for the World Cup. It doesn't seem likely, but if it happens at all, it will really help alleviate traffic (which is why a lot of bus companies are opposed to it, unfortunately).

While on Supervia, the suburban commuter trains, I noticed a sign saying that public preaching was prohibited. I was surprised, since this had been a common occurence to see evangelical preachers proselytizing on the cars, even on incredibly crowded rush hour trains. Apparently, a local court prohibited the practice on Supervia, though I wonder if the law has actually stuck. I'm guessing exhausted commuters tired of zealots shouting on packed trains are all for the new rule.

Finally, the international airport still needs some work, but it seems like one of the biggest problems is actually with staff. When we left, the airport workers were on strike, causing massive lines to get through security and immigration. [Click that link to see a pretty awesome photo of a belligerent striker in a gorilla costume] While waiting on the seemingly interminable line, I tried to hand a lost tourist card to one of the employees, who blew me off twice; somehow, some gringo ahead of me left the country without it, though some people are charged money if they lose it. An angry Carioca in front of us was screaming into his cell phone on the immigration line, spitting expletives and haranging someone about bringing the law down (Eli suspected he might have been a federal policeman). He complained to some of the staff about the line, and while they seemed sympathetic and deferential, he still had to wait with the rest of us, giving me a small hint of satisfaction. When we got to the gate, the gringoes were all completely confused and frustrated.

And lastly, TAM is awesome. I loved some of the extra goodies they gave out and the individual TV sets in each seat, and the service was excellent. It was the first time I flew direct, and though the flight was painfully long, it was otherwise relatively painless.

Security

I wasn't in the city long enough to get a good sense of this (and plus, I came at a weird time), but while I was there, there was definitely an increased police presence on the streets in Zona Sul. I was surprised to see pairs of cops at intersections, seemingly following the Rudy Giuliani method of street policing. There also seemed to be a lot more police on the beach in Ipanema, though some of them didn't seem to be too concerned with policing per se:

And while I didn't have enough time to fully gage this, I seemed to see fewer homeless people in Zona Sul, particularly in my old neighborhood, where they used to be ubiquitous. It's possible there was a recent sweep so it doesn't mean much, but I hoped that it meant more people, especially children, have been able to leave the streets.

Comments

[bz]

Wow, I was impressed with the picture of Botafogo station!

[Nicole]

How did you miss the whole debate about preaching on the Supervia? Late 2008-early 2009 they were going all out at rush hour, when the cars were already insupportably full and screaming (including screaming their preaching against gays, against macumba, etc.)the whole way. It was really ridiculous and the footage was on the news for weeks before they finally passed the law.

This was also right before the silly Rede Globo/Rede Record fight over who was more corrupt...so I wonder how much reigning in the evengalicals was tied with that.

I'm glad that you've shown some light on the awesome and generally less crowded shopping malls of the Zona Oeste. The West Shopping in Campo Grande is right up there with Bangu. By the time you make it back again the new mega shoppings in the Vargens near Globo and Record as well as the Village Mall in Barra and new huge shopping in Campo Grande (also by the multiplano group) will probably be up and running. You'll have to do a tour and rank them for your readers.

[Juliana]

Honestly, I think your blog a big garbage. I was looking at the blog posts, and what really saw was that the vast majority of posts portray the problems of Brazil. Brazil is a vast country that has much good to show to the world, but unfortunately there are people like you, that prefers to show the bad side of things (many of them in bad taste, unimportant...), and forget the good things.
And please, dont come to justify the unjustifiable, because the facts are there for everyone to see, their attitudes.
Unfortunately we brazilians are forced to endure immigrants of its kind.

I dont understand how a person from a developed country has this kind of attitude, maybe have some kind of INFERIORITY COMPLEX.

[Juliana]

I forgot to say... I only see americans with this kind of attitude, I dont see europeans blog with this meaning unfortunate like your blog.
Something must be.

But be aware that the world love the brazilians by person and not by money, different in relation the americans.

PD: No need to approve my comment, he was directed to you.

[AFF]

Rachel,

I think it's exciting to visit a place that is changing so rapidly. I first spent time in Rio in 2005, then in 2006 for 6 months (mostly outside of the city--I lived in Macaé), then again 2009 for another 6 months while I worked in the Centro. Between 2005 and 2009 it seemed like there were huge changes in the homeless population, Brazilian confidence and the sophistication of the tourist infrastructure.

Measuring those changes can be tricky. For me what complicates measuring changes in Rio is that I changed so much in those years too, so what I looked for changed dramatically. In 2005 I cared more about bars and night life and meeting people to party with; in 2009 I wanted to meet more established cariocas and network for jobs.

I like reading your blog to see how your interests have changed too and what new things you notice in vast city. That's why I think Juliana's comment is pretty unfair. Sure you have noticed different problems about the city. You've also noticed different successes. But your values--a concern for the poor and a wide-eyed curiosity about a fascinating city--seem to have remained pretty constant. So keep the posts coming!

[Juliana]

I'll move to the United States. I'll do a blog and I'll start posting the bad things of american life ... cities are in chaos as Detroit or New Orleans ... american racism ... Americans' love for guns and wars ... the americans obese, United States is the most obese country in the world. ... the greed of Americans ... envy to see people happy ... americans looking for food in trash ... americans homeless sleeping in Central Park... Show everyone that the world's largest pornography industry is in the United States, prostitutes, transvestites ... in New York that you see in Times Square... I WILL POST THAT INSTEAD OF GOOD THINGS.

There are many bad things from Americans to show ... but to do this?

I'M WORRY BY THE UNITED STATES? WANT TO BE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES TO SOLVE THEIR PROBLEMS? Oh no, "I'm from Norway", the americans i see and feel something that i dont know what does mean, I know I have to show the rotten for everyone to see, so i'll tranquil sleep, that is like medicine for my complex.

PEOPLE LIKE YOU ARE NOT WELCOME HERE IN BRAZIL.
I feel sorry for your brazilian boyfriend, that have a girlfriend like you.

If you love Brazil and show that their attitude is so, why you not candidate for President of Brazil? Do something or else you take medication for their disease complex.

[Ian]

I'm overjoyed to hear that Evangelical Christian Noise Pollution has been banned from Supervia. Apart from the shrill annoying holler, Brazilians and others don't need this obnoxious infusion of misogyny, homophobia and ignorance of these would-be Christian totalitarians bent on retarding progress.

To Juliana: Shrill "Patriotism" that can't tolerate criticism of country is ignorant and worthless. If you truly love Brazil, you'll you won't feel threatened when "outsiders" publicly acknowledge deficiencies and injustice that are known thee world over. Indeed, someone who truly loves Brazil will work to correct these shortcomings so as to enable your beautiful country to fulfill its vast potential. Thus I will continue to criticize and excoriate Brazil for it's endemic Racism, ingrained Misogyny, chasm-like Classism, caviler human rights abuses, rife corruption and the debilitation caused by Catholicism and Evangelical Christianity, because I love Brazil and I seek to promote its improvement.

[Kris & Luisa]

For a Gringa who no longer lives in Rio but visits often, you have a keen sense for the subtle, and often not so subtle, progressive change occuring in Brazil. My wife and I have noticed this as well, as each time we visit Rio, life seems to get a bit better and easier for the majority of Cariocas.

We only have saudades for the past when we think of the time we spent in the smaller colonial towns of the interior and villages along the Brazil coast. These towns and villages are progressing into the 21st century, and inevitably are losing some of their antiquated charm.

Hopefully the tradition of extended family and community will remain strong in both rural and urban Brazil. We seem to have lost much of this tradition over the past 40 or so years in the USA.

Thanks for continuing to blog about Brazil and the Cidade Maravilhosa.

[Adam]

"because I love Brazil and I seek to promote its improvement." This was well-put. Being a Brazil-blogger myself, I can say that it's good to balance the good and the bad but not to keep a blind eye to one or the other. If anyone thinks writing about Brazil is tough, try promoting Colombia! Always an up-hill battle for me but I've learned many things go unseen in the int'l press. Glazing over subjects of import only attracts readers who care for fluff. Being constructively critical isn't always easy but it's necessary to bring discussions to new conclusions.

On the topic of the post, it's great they finally put in an Ipanema station. It was really needed. I wasn't much of a fan of Barra when I lived in Rio so Ipanema is good enough for me. Here's an idea. How about a metrocable like they installed in Medellín, Colombia bringing favela-dwellers access to the 'asphalt'?

[Rio Gringa]

Hi Adam, there's actually one in the Santa Marta favela, and they built one in Complexo do Alemao as well: http://mais.uol.com.br/view/99at89ajv6h1/teleferico-vai-beneficiar-moradores-de-favela-do-rj-0402993070D0C993C6?types=A&

[Adam]

Looks like I need to make another trip to Rio. It's been just shy of 5 years. Also, the word 'teleférico' wasn't one I was familiar with, even though it's apparently used in Spanish, too. The only example I knew of was called 'metrocable'. Now I'm thinking, ok...tele (phone) férico (from ferro?), humm.