Rio Gringa

Return to Rio

Last week, I returned to Rio for the first time since I moved back to the States in May 2009, after getting married and finding a job and trying to carve out a new life in New York. It wasn't that we wanted to wait so long to go back, but between saving up money and getting jobs and then getting vacation time, it took longer than expected, and with an invitation to my brother-in-law's wedding, we ended up waiting a year and a half to go back.

I had really mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, it would mean recognizing that I missed Brazil terribly and was very upset about leaving, something that I had to deal with in order to get on track back in the US. I was also really nervous about getting mugged, much more so than when I was living there, a result of not having to deal with the daily reality of the city. But I was incredibly excited to matar saudades and see people and places I'd really missed, and to see some of the positive changes going on in the city. While I prepared for the trip, my biggest concerns were bringing enough gifts, getting clothes for the wedding, and leaving valuables at home.

Little did I know I was actually going to a war zone. But more on that tomorrow.

The oddest thing about being back was that it felt like I'd never left. Everything felt so normal; it was like putting on a pair of well worn shoes molded to your feet. Feeling so at home made leaving all the more difficult, and made me ache to move back someday, or at least be able to visit more often. I wish I'd had more time to go exploring, to go back and visit all of my favorite places, but I did have enough time to wander around Botafogo, Ipanema, and the Zona Oeste. Going back made me realize how I hadn't appreciated my time there enough, and hadn't made the best use of my time, and wished I could start over. It really helped put things into perspective.

Coming up this week and next: my take on the recent events in Rio from the ground and from an outside perspective, the changing face of the city, a Tropa de Elite 2 review, the do's and don'ts of being in a Brazilian wedding, and more.

Guest Posts

I'm taking a little blog break for the Thanksgiving holiday, so I just wanted to take the opportunity to put a call out for guest posts! If it's Brazil related, I'm interested! I don't accept every submission, and I prefer new posts to already published posts, but I will definitely link to your blog or site of your choice if I publish your post. I also accept posts in Portuguese. Submissions can be sent to: riogringaconsult at gmail dot com.

I'll be back next Monday with all new adventures I'm excited to write about, so stay tuned.

Foreigners Working in Brazil

I spotted a couple of articles recently boasting about a large influx of foreigners working in Brazil. But they seem to be a little off, to say the least. Taking a look at two of them, it's easy to see a lack of perspective.

Estadao recently reported that Brazil has become "a land of opportunity" for young foreigners seeking international work experience. The only source? Numbers from AIESEC, an international organization that places students in foreign internships, which reported that its Brazil placements doubled in the last year. This is not only an inaccurate gage of overall trends (needless to say, citing a single source is inadequate for any story of this type), but it also failed to stress the fact that AIESEC charges students for the internships, so that students are not only not getting paid for their work, but are in fact paying to work. Because the students don't receive remuneration, it's easier for them to get visas (I'm not sure which AIESEC requires, but it's possible they don't require work visas). It seemed like an odd promotional piece for AIESEC, but failed to actually find a real trend, despite the fact that there is an increased interest in Brazil amongst foreigners.

Correction: An AIESEC rep contacted me with the following information: Participants pay for the program, but receive compensation (he did not tell me if the stipend covers the cost of the program, but says it does cover "living costs"). Also, he informed me that: "About the Visa, we're currently using two RN (Resoluçao Normativas) from the Counselor of Immigration (CNIg), one for our professional traineeships the RN 88, that is just available for undergraduated students to make internships on companies, in which they receive a financial support (who cover all his expenses here) and, the other, for our social internship, the RN68, that is just available for volunteer work on NGOs or Social Projects, this one, as volunteer, don't receive a financial support, but they have guaranteed hosting for free, meals and transportation.") So they don't actually issue work visas, the main point of this post, but they do offer special visas that allow foreigners to work at local companies and organizations for a short term period (the site says between 6 weeks and 18 months). Also, the website states that internships are available for recent college graduates.

The next story did manage to identify some real trends, but skirted some of the thornier issues of foreigners working in Brazil. According to a special report from Yahoo, the Brazilian government issued 18.8 percent more work visas this year to foreigners, a definite rise due to an increase in international trade. But the article makes it seem like Brazil is a beacon for foreign workers not only because of its economic importance, but also because of its culture and hospitality. One source claimed, "We don't impose any obstacles on foreigners; we're welcoming." It also mentions cushy benefits offered by some multinational companies, like subsidies for education, housing, and travel.

The reality is that it's extremely difficult to get a Brazilian work visa. While it's true that more multinationals are opening offices in Brazil (mainly in Sao Paulo, by my rough estimation), the most common way to get a work visa is to be hired by a foreign company abroad, either to initially work in the country of origin or to be hired to be sent to work in a new office or new position in Brazil. Despite the fact that these companies usually deal with the majority of the work visa responsibilities, it's still a lengthy and painful process. Since it frequently takes so long for the paperwork to go through, sometimes professionals moving to Brazil enter on a tourist visa and wait for their papers to come through before they change their status. 

Even though the US is protectionist in terms of its workers, and has one of the most convoluted and broken visa systems, its work visa system does allow for American companies to hire foreigners directly, especially those already living or studying in the US. To my knowledge, it's much less common for Brazilian companies to directly hire foreigners unless they're highly specialized, like engineers or Ph.Ds. Meanwhile, Brazilian companies may be more likely to hire foreigners already living in Brazil if they're permanent residents, alleviating the need to deal with the bureaucratic work visa process.

Since Brazil has become such an important part of the global economy, it's inevitable that more companies will want to invest and work there. But the fact that multinationals are still relying on foreign workers is not necessarily a good sign; it means that they either do not want or cannot find adequate local labor. This can be detrimental for Brazilian workers, leaving them out and benefitting foreigners who could otherwise find jobs at home. On the other hand, it's always a good thing to have a growing pool of foreign workers, since it helps innovation and can ultimately be profitable and beneficial to those involved (a fact that many xenophobic Americans are often woefully unaware of when debating this subject). Outsiders can help identify problems and offer solutions, or they may be able to provide valuable training and knowledge to local workers.

The bottom line? Ultimately, offering more short-term work opportunities to foreigners would provide an important boost to the Brazilian economy, especially in areas where there's a dearth of qualified local workers. Foreign language instruction is a good example, since there are limited visas available through specific organizations, though it's a critical area with a huge need, not only due to globalization but also for the World Cup and the Olympics. There is a definite need to ensure that local workers are able to compete, but there is also a wealth of opportunity to be had by offering foreigners the chance to provide necessary knowledge and experience, or help with new ideas and innovation.

Hate Crimes in Brazil

The idea of hate crime in Brazil is one that seems to be something of a new concept. In a place where violence is a daily possibility in major cities, and where some deny the existence of racism and discrimination, hate crimes are sometimes viewed as just crime. It isn't unless an attack is particularly obvious and especially violent that the press frames it as a hate crime. While racism is punishable by law in Brazil, experts say it is often ignored, and that impunity helps contribute to more hate crimes.

After the presidential elections, an angry law student posted an incitement to murder on Twitter, blaming the election results on Northeasterners and urging her followers to "kill Northeasterners" by drowning them. While her Tweet was quickly circulated, it drew outrage from many, and a prosecutor now wants to pursue a hate crime case against the bigoted Tweeter, who was swiftly fired from the law office where she worked. If found guilty, the student could get jail time or a fine. The crime was framed as racism, which is illegal in Brazil, despite the fact that there was no mention of race in the outburst. Since the Northeast is associated with poverty and black Brazilians, the student's comment was interpreted as being racist, since the implication was that she was urging others to kill poor blacks. The incident was not really out of character, though; wealthy and middle-class Southeasterners, particularly on the right side of the political spectrum, are apt to blame the Northeast for supporting the Workers Party, and anti-Northeastern sentiment is unfortunately not uncommon. The upside of the incident is that it helped shed light on an issue that has not gained as much attention as it could have, and helped start a dialogue about tolerance. 

Meanwhile, last year, a middle class black man who was "mistaken" for a car thief was nearly beaten to death in the parking lot of a Carrefour by security guards. The story was initially suppressed, though it was eventually reported by the press. The victim sued Carrefour and won, and Carrefour fired the employees involved and also hired a new security service. However, as far as I can tell, the crime wasn't brought to the courts as a criminal case; none of the assailants were charged  with a hate crime. In fact, it would appear none of them were charged at all, though the victim's lawyer seems to be trying to have them prosecuted. But given the excrutiatingly slow judicial process in Brazil, there's hope yet.

More recently, there have been disturbing cases of hate crimes against gays in Brazil. According to gay rights groups, murders of gays rose 62 percent between 2007 and 2009, with an average of 110 murders per year. Some even estimate higher mortality rates, claiming that one person dies every two days in Brazil as the result of homophobic crimes. Human rights organizations have been pushing for a national anti-homophobia law, but they haven't been successful yet. In fact, there is allegedly no law that specifically punishes homophobic crimes, which some say helps lead to more hate crimes. Homophobia has not quite become non-PC as it has in other parts of the world; Brazil still has a machismo culture, and homophobia is frequently accepted as normal, be it as an insult or source of jokes, especially among men.

In June, a fourteen year-old was brutally murdered by a group of skinheads in a Rio suburb. Three suspects were arrested and claimed they were not guilty. The victim was kidnapped, tortured, and strangled, and abandoned in an empty lot. Last week, a group of upper middle-class teenagers went on an attacking spree, beating several men and yelling homophobic epithets after the Sao Paulo Gay Pride Parade. Four of them were minors, and were sent to a juvenile detention center, but they have already been released, since a judge determined that they "were not a danger to society." Though the victims' lawyers will hopefully pursue criminal charges against the aggressors, the Sao Paulo government has only threatened fines (though they could potentially be quite high).

Finally, on Sunday, a nineteen year-old student was shot after the Rio Gay Pride Parade, supposedly by members of the military. Yes, you read that right - by soldiers. His crime? Chatting with other men after the parade. The victim claims he was approached by several men in uniform, who yelled homophobic comments and shot him at close range. (Thankfully, he survived) The military has denied any involvement, but it has begun an investigation to determine exactly what happened. One of the military's defenses is that the local military base in Copacabana does not use blue uniforms, which the student said they were wearing (they use green). While it remains to be seen exactly what happened, the bigger question is if the shooter, whoever he is, will actually be brought to justice.

UPDATED 11/18: A soldier has confessed to the Rio Gay Pride Shooting. He will be charged for attempted homicide and could receive a maximum sentence of twenty years in prison. Now it's a matter of seeing how it plays out in the courts.

The Economic Gap

In the past, I've discussed how the Brazilian economic miracle is not exactly the all-encompassing phenomenon the media might have you believe, due to still-low salaries, high taxes, consumer debt, and exorbitant prices for technology and some consumer goods. Here are some other examples of day to day economic struggles that Brazilian consumers are facing. While some may not seem like immediate dangers, they can potentially cause problems in the long run and to hinder growth rates.

-While American consumers struggle with credit card debt, Brazilians are also dealing with credit card fees. Credit card annuities in Brazil are amongst the highest in the world, as are annual interest rates, which range from 188 to 433 percent.

-Despite a boom in construction and home purchases due to increased credit and higher employment rates, there are disturbingly similar trends already emerging in the Brazilian housing market, although there's been very little reporting on the subject. According to one story, there has been a "visible increase" in homeowners seeking advice on arrears, since some buyers are being deliberately misled about spending obligations, and already, financial firms are profiting. It even points out that Brazilian law allows banks to repossess a home after just three delayed payments.

-Even though salaries are on the rise and unemployment is at a record low, Brazilians are amongst the most unsatisfied with their jobs and income amongst 23 developed and developing countries, says a recent study. Also, Brazilians counted lack of sleep, health care costs, and job loss as some of the major causes of job-related stress.

-In the recently released Legatum Prosperity Index, which measures wealth and wellbeing worldwide, Brazil came in 45th out of 110 countries. While the results seem to be dependent on subjectivity, the rationale for Brazil's score does have merit: poor public security, education, and governance. Brazilians surveyed were unsatisfied with the educational system, which was seen as being in short supply and low quality, and showed little confidence in democratic institutions. In this study, these conditions were seen as obstacles for economic growth and prosperity, as well as overall quality of life.

Finally, here's an interesting report on how education affects the economy in Brazil (Portuguese only):

 

The Brazilian Internet Boom

While those in the technology industry are well aware of Brazil's growth in terms of internet usage and online technologies, I get the impression that other foreigners don't quite grasp the extent to which Brazil has taken off in this area. It's not just the wealthy who have become sophisticated internet users; more than ever, Brazilians across the socioeconomic spectrum have access to the Web. Despite absurdly expensive computer technology, more Brazilians are logging on, be it through internet cafes on the lower income end or through smartphones on the high income end.

A few brief statistics:

-in May 2010, there were approximately 73 million Internet users in Brazil, which is about 36 percent of the total population

-Brazilian internet users spend more time online each month than in any other country in the world, spending an average of over 48 hours per month surfing the web

-e-commerce in Brazil has been growing at an exponential rate: in 2001, e-commerce accounted for around R$0.55 billion in revenue, while in 2009, it accounted for R$10.6 billion.

-Over 27 million Brazilian internet users access the Internet from home (2009), due to increasing salaries and employment, as well as expanded broadband access

-86 percent of Brazilian internet users use social networks, making Brazil the #1 country in the world for social networking. While Orkut is the most used network, Twitter and Facebook have become increasingly popular destinations. In fact, one fifth of Brazilian internet users used Twitter in June 2010.

You can see more info on the Brazilian internet market (plus a bit about Mexico and Argentina) in this great Powerpoint below, replete with plenty of interesting charts.

Stampede

View more documents from klamkin.

Also, learn more about the history of Internet in Brazil with this neat little video below (Portuguese only).

 

Hollywood in Brazil

There's a definite danger when Hollywood portrays Brazil in popular foreign TV shows or film, a sobering reality that many Brazilians are already well aware of. It's amazing how seemingly innocent mistakes or a lack of attention to detail can perpetuate stereotypes not only in countries around the world, but even from generation to generation.

There hasn't really been a big Brazil-centered gringo movie in awhile; the last one that comes to mind is the ridiculously stupid and very controversial Turistas (and I guess that stupid Stallone movie). But the next two years promise more than a few Hollywood movies that take place in Brazil, including the much anticipated animated film Rio 3D, amongst others.

This past week, two different films were shot in Rio de Janeiro. The Fast and the Furious Five production flew the stars to Brazil to film a few scenes in the Cidade Maravilhosa, allowing the actors to also hang out on the beach and mingle with locals. Though it was a big deal in the local media (especially since Vin Diesel in particular was incredibly friendly and a gracious guest, despite some blips), it turned out that despite the fact that most of the movie is supposed to take place in Rio, the majority of the movie was shot in Puerto Rico, due to high production costs in Brazil. So if you actually see the movie, don't be surprised if a lot of the scenes look unfamiliar, since only a small portion of the film was shot in Rio. Let's just hope some of the Brazilian characters don't speak Spanish.

But there was an even bigger deal with Hollywood in Brazil this week. The Breaking Dawn duo landed in Rio on Friday and made headlines across the country. Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson flew down with a production crew, and even the original writer Stephanie Meyer, to shoot a few scenes in the city and then a few scenes in Paraty. Despite earlier misgivings about making the trip to Brazil, the director and producers finally agreed to send the two stars to film in the actual honeymoon location from the book. The director also made sure (and was very wise to do so) to say nice things about Rio and how the cast and crew felt safe in the city and were happy about their warm reception. But the decision wasn't all that simple. The Brazilian film distribution company RioFilme, which is run by the city government, paid US$500,000 (R$850,000) for the US production to shoot in Rio, and had been heavily lobbying the film studio to come to Brazil for months. Luckily, the short Brazil-based shooting supposedly should bring in around US$3 million in revenue for the city and create around 500 jobs.

Hopefully, the two movies won't create controversy when they come out because of the stereotypes they portray, but there's a chance they might. I recently watched the full episode of the Rio Simpsons episodes for the first time, since it's one of the most controversial portrayals of Brazil to come out of Hollywood in recent years (right up there with Turistas). At the time, Brazilians were up in arms for the crazy stereotypes and inaccuracies in the episode, and Riotur, the tourism bureau for Rio de Janeiro, threatened to sue Fox (though in the end, nothing happened). Here's an interesting piece on the incident from NPR:

One of my favorite lines from the Rio episode is when Marge, in a an outdoor market, marvels, "Everything here is something!" Isn't it, though?

While it was a ridiculous portrayal of Brazil, it was also really funny, with a clear eye for detail, which indicated to me that one or more of the writers had been to Rio. And it was clearly a parody, which is what the Simpsons is all about, unlike the aforementioned dramatic movies due to come out soon. While some argue that with comedy, Brazilians should learn to laugh at themselves more, it's a lot harder to be forgiving with a "serious" movie, especially a blockbuster like the Twilight Saga.

Hopefully the Breaking Dawn people will take a note from the Simpsons affair and try to stick as much to reality as possible and avoid some of the silly stereotypes that are even in the book (though it would be fun to see Robert Pattinson speaking Portuguese though; in the book, his character speaks it fluently, because he's awesome like that). It's a thrill for some Brazilians to see their country showcased in such a big movie, but they won't be forgiving if the writers get a little too creative with the realistic parts of the plot.